Looking for Answers about Rust-Oleum Rust-Oleum Stone Effects, Step 2?

You should be able to. I did find that I needed to double up on step 2 of the application initially. I was also able to get some of the rough spots smoother with a file before I put down step 3. Try it on a spot to see how it works for you

This does not look like a submersible product to me. You'll need ti use an epoxy, and it needs to be specifically submersible.

Yes, this should cover tiles well, but be prepared to use several times the estimate for the step2 filler material.

I had the same problem after removing ugly green carpeting from the steps and landing but using a razorblade (you can buy the blade at Cdn Tire and under $10) it came off pretty good. Step 1 of the system is a pretty decent primer and covers quite well, as does Step 2. Give the razorblade gadget a try first.

Nope, just wait till it is dry again. Try not to get it dirty in the meantime.

Stone Effects does not lend itself well to patch-up work. A thin coat of product over the entire surface works best to restore the appearance of the surface. First, exise the bubbled, and/or peeling area, and clean the exposed concrete with a stiff bristle brush, and some warm water. Rinse well, and allow surface to dry. Next, scuff sand the entire surface with 100 grit sandpaper to abrade the Step 3 sealer. Clean away any sanding dust. Re-prime exposed concrete only, then 4 hours later, fill in the newly primed area with some Step 2 product, to make the area being repaired flush with the rest of the surface. You can then apply a very thin skim coat of Step 2 over the entire surface to even out the appearance. Allow the Step 2 material to dry 24 hours before re-sealing with Step 3. Apply a new coat of Step 3 every 2 years to ensure the surface is as water resistant as possible. Bubbles will happen when water has found a way under the finish. By re-sealing every other year, water stays out, and the finish stays beautiful.

The Rust-Oleum is a 3 step water-based system which is highly durable and impact resistant, and will withstand harsh weather and daily wear and tear. Make sure you follow the 3-step process and instructions closely to ensure proper application and adhesion. You may also want to visit the Rust-Oleum website to further investigate whether this sealant can be used on parging as it's truly intended for patios, walkways and porches. As for vertical application, it will adhere. Rust-Oleum website:

http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=725&SBL=5

According to the manufacturer, Rustoleum Stoneffects can be used on pressure treated wood that is at least a year old. I would be careful applying to a wooden walkway that is too old and/or damaged however. Call the company and ask if you aren't sure.

Yes you can:
1) prime the counter top with an appropriate primer (such as Zinsser or Kilz)
2) apply the VP
3) apply several coats of Varnish to protect the surface (the VP topcoat will not be enough on a counter)**
**note: by applying coats of Varnish over the VP it will lose its' soft sheen and feel.

Be it that it is a fireplace the you have covered I would say that putting a varnish on top of the stoneeffects will have a yellowing effects due to the heat reacting with the varnish/expoxy or what ever. I wouldn't if I were you. As far as the countertop thing goes I just did mine I wrote a review in step2. you should check it out. Step 4 the epoxy is a clear glass like coating.